If your AF-3000/4000 series EFIS LCD suddenly looks garbled or scrambled,
the most likely cause of this problem is that the LCD ribbon cable has either started to work loose, and/or that the ribbon connector contacts may be starting to lightly corrode.
Depending on your own comfort working on electronic components, this problem might be user serviceable. A remedy can usually be had by:
1) opening the EFIS,
2) accessing both ends of the ribbon cable (the LCD side and the baseboard side),
3) cleaning all the contacts with electrical contact cleaner, such as CRC QD Contact Cleaner, or DeoxIT,
4) reassembling the connectors, using hot glue to help tack them down better,
5) reassembling the EFIS in the reverse order of disassembly.
Since these EFIS displays are long out of warranty, the following instructions are provided as a courtesy for the DIYer who has the means to effect this repair themselves.
Use caution! You can ALWAYS make any problem worse!!!
Read the following detailed instructions carefully. While no soldering is required, a fairly comprehensive disassembly of the EFIS is necessary, moreso if you have engine and/or airdata modules installed. Work from a large, clean, well-lit surface, and keep track of each screw as you pull them out. Having a non-carpeted floor surface is best, at a minimum you will want to make sure that you ground yourself by touching a large metal object before disassembling the EFIS.
If any of these directions do not make sense, or if you are not comfortable with the scope of the repair, stop and contact Advanced Flight Systems to discuss service options.
Screen Cable Check
This document is intended to check if the screen cable is seated correctly in the
connector.
Put unit screen side down onto foam pad. Remove four corner screws as shown above.
Rear case assembly will pull off screen bezel.
Silicon may be holding white and pink wires keeping the rear assembly from pulling away from
screen. If this is the case, gently hold onto wires and pull rear assembly away from bezel 1”.
Gently press on the black connector on the back of the screen to verify it is fully seated.
Plug the black button board cable into its connector and press Button 1 to power the unit on
internal batteries. See if problem has been fixed. If it has not, power down the unit by pressing button 2.
Replace rear assembly in reverse order careful not to pinch any wires between assemblies. Use
loctite or thread locker on rear corner screws.
Start removing case screws
Remove all screws that hold the rear cover. 10 from the left and right side
and 6 screws on the bottom and top.
Remove DSUB jack screws
If your unit contains airdata you will need to remove two screws on both sides of the pitot/static block.
You should be able to remove the back cover. Disconnect the battery. Press a clip in on the connector to
do so. Now, remove the lower case.
Pull straight out on the connector as shown below. When assembling, this connector is keyed
and will only go in one way.
Next remove the 14 conductor cable plugged into the AHRS as shown below. When assembling,
this cable’s connector is marked with a triangle and should be matched up with the triangle on
the AHRS connector. In the picture the red conductor is towards the screen and the cable
comes back over the connector.
Pull straight up on the top cover assembly and lay it on the table. The LCD connector is shown
in the picture below.
Verify it is seated firmly by applying gentle pressure across it. If you feel that you were able to
press it down further, remove the silicon holding the connector to the board as it was not
effective. Apply additional silicon across the top surface and on both sides of the board.
Reassemble the unit in the reverse order. Email if you have any questions.